Micro-Mesh® features tiny abrasive crystals on resilient cloth-backed latex.These gentle "cushioned" particles generate less heat and friction than ordinary finishing papers, don't load up as quickly, and last up to 15 times longer. Use Micro-Mesh with soapy water to produce a scratch-free mirror shine on finishes and pickguards.
The set includes:
9 Micro-Mesh abrasive sheets. (one 3"x3" piece of each grit)
1500-1800-2400-3200-3600-4000-6000-8000 and 12000 grit.
1 3"x3" Foam sanding block
2 x Stainless steel Fingerboard Protectors while you are polishing them frets.
Micro-Mesh was developed for polishing jet windshields to maintain their optical clarity. Imagine how your instrument will look! Great for repairing scratches and overspray. Use them for polishing frets, too.+
Instructions for Finishing: ( Credit to Stewart Macdonald )
WHY YOU SHOULD WET-SAND BEFORE BUFFING
1. Everybody does it.
Once the final lacquer coats have cured, most finishers begin wet-sanding with fine-grit finishing papers. You want to remove the "orange peel" texture before buffing (see picture).
2. If you dry sand, you ruin your fine finishing paper in 10 seconds.
Even high quality finishing papers will build up quickly when used dry. Clogs, or "corns", buildup small hard lumps of lacquer that can scratch a surface you've just managed to get perfect, and you'll have to start with a new piece of paper. Wet-sanding lubricates the surface, washing out any grit-clogging particles and reduces the heat of sanding.
3. Better scratches. Huh?
Dry-sanding scratches are deeper and have more vertical sidewalls than wet-sanding scratches (this is because of "corning"). Wet-sanding scratches may be as deep but they're not as obvious because the edges of the scratch are more rounded. Therefore, wet-sanded surfaces are easier to buff, and the final appearance will not show the super-fine scratches.
WHAT TO USE FOR WET-SANDING
HOW TO WET-SAND